For the tug, run separate wires back to the battery. Wire the fridge through pin 9 and the battery through pin 8. Add an extra wire to the fridge (or the battery if that is easier.) Use 8 gauge wire minimum. I suggest you use the 12 pin connectors, they have 7 pins the size of the little round ones and 5 larger pins suitable to run the fridge. You will also possibly find the wiring in the van is a little light on to carry the battery charging and run the fridge. If the hot wire is large enough to run the fridge efficiently then it will burn out pin 2 by overloading it. If you are using them I suggest you change them. When over in WA a few years back i noticed you people use the small round 7 pin connectors. At least that's how things work over this neck of the woods.
In the normal scheme of things, tow bar installers ignore ignore the signal pin as they consider that no trailers have reverse lights (some do including mine.) To keep the installation price down they also don't include the hot wire to the tugs battery unless you ask. They also loose their electric brakes as there is no brake light signal going to the brake controller after the fuse blows. People plug their vans into the tug, turn the fridge to 12 V and when they apply their brakes the fuse blows. If you have a Toyota and the Toyota agent wired the trailer socket you will probably find it was wired to the standards. In the standards for trailer plug wiring provision is made for reversing lights (often termed reverse signal.) Here are the standard configurations. Tuesday, at 00:44Keith, you are on the right track with the wiring of your van. It makes me think though "how many people set their fridge to 12V while they are travelling thinking the fridge is being run on 12V and it is not happening because their tow vehicle has not been modified? So given it comes from the reversing pin on the trailer plug this would also mean that the tow vehicle would have to be modified from "the norm" such that this pin supplies the charging voltage from the tow vehicle - but maybe this is "normal" if towing a caravan with a 7 pin plug. The way it is wired if this is the case would also mean it cannot be run from the house battery as the diode blocks that from happening. I am a novice at this but of course the only time you would run the fridge on 12V would be while travelling and I have probably read that when I think about it - imost fridges would not run off the house battery for very long would they unless you had serious house battery capacity. I wondered if that would possibly be the case and that would make sense now that you have made me think harder about it.
Saturday, at 22:36Thanks Bob - you have given me something to track down tomorrow.
I would like to know where the mystery cabls goes before I start changing things. I am seeing why Collyn Rivers and other forum articles refer to inadequate wiring in vans. I am not looking to change much but want to improve the house battery charging system. My project is starting to come together and now I am playing with the 12V system on a Jayco 2001 Westport - and before we start "yes I am qualified to do what I am doing". It comes from pin 2 on the trailer plug (reverse light) but there are no reversing lights on the van. I am hoping someone might be able to tell me where the 2nd cable might disappear to within the van. In the wiring coming from the trailer plug there is a heavier black wire that connects under the van to 2 of the same gauge wires that both disappear into the van but only one appears in the wiring loom above this point that goes via a diode to apply positive voltage from the tow vehicle to the house battery/CS2000 converter system that is still factory standard it would appear. Hi all - hope someone has some info for me.īefore the explanation that follows the question is this:
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